Joe Kinder definitely has a recipe for fulfilled life as a climber, video producer, blogger and traveller. In this exclusive conversation he talks about his life, training and climbing goals.
You are a traveler, photographer, blogger, film maker, businessman. You name it, you seem to have your hand in it. Does climbing feature above all these other interests, or is it equal among your many passions?
Ha! Thanks for that sort of recognition as being multi-faceted. The truth is that I’ve always had other interests than just climbing. Climbing is my number one passion and the reason I do pretty much everything in my life, but creating art or business is also pretty satisfying. If there’s a correlation (and there often is) between climbing and those other attributes, then I am living a pretty awesome life.
You visit places all around the world – that means a lot of undiscovered terrain to climb. Suprisingly you claim: „I suck at onsighting…GODDAMNIT” – What would you consider the main reasons for that? What, in your opinion, are the main difficulties of onsight climbing? Are you a purist when it comes to following the rules of sport climbing?
When it comes to the rules of climbing I’m pretty much a purist, as I don’t bend the traditional rules as we know them. But, let’s face it, there are different rules and ways things are done depending on what country, state, or crag you’re visiting. We are always visitors when we’re climbing and the important thing is to abide by the rules of where you are.
Onsight climbing is awesome and something I don’t practice enough. I am one of those people that avoid my climbing weaknesses pretty well. I can’t say that’s a good thing either and is something I am working on currently. My brain works in a hasty way sometimes and the urge to climb the way I know gets the best of me. I get really into the redpoint process and really enjoy projecting routes I can send. Chris Sharma keeps telling me to hunker down on something harder…. Sometimes this is easier said than done, but this is my next step, 9a+ or 9b projects… and I truly have a lot of them where I am headed next.
„I’ve never trained in the gym nor do I even know how to (I would honestly love to learn some training programs).” – I find this statement so interesting because you are one of the top level climbers. what would you therefore say is your recipe for success?
Up until now my success has been simply based on devotion to hard routes. That involves picking a cool climb and trying it until I send. That has gotten me by and been pretty enjoyable as well. Climbing has always been about the love and pleasure, but at the same time you can’t make the largest gains without a little suffering and growth. I just went through my first training cycle over the summer and it worked in crazy ways. Afterwards I left for the Basque Country and Andalucia and had one of the most successful trips of my life. I sent lots of 8c+ routes in only a few tries each. I was never projecting and it was a fun and relaxed mode.
Now I’m interested in raising my levels and sending my next level difficulty. This involves work and real-deal-training. I’ve learned lots from this past summer as well as a lot of info from my friends Sam Elias and Jonathan Siegrist who are super intelligent climbers when it comes to training.
You are a big admirer of the school of spanish climbing. What whould you say is so uniqe about it?
I have been climbing in Spain for over 10 years now and this has been a place I love for the climbing particularly, but also the people and culture. The vibe here is pleasant and there’s very little ego. People look at each other as equal and I really appreciate this. As well you are exposed to high-end climbers every day and the best cliffs on the planet. As of now I am eager to explore more and visit new places. I would be stoked on new development in new limestone areas. This really motivates me. Any suggestions from your readers are fully welcomed.
Może wkrótce będziemy mogli opowiedzieć ci o rejonie, który planujemy odwiedzić wiosną, ale póki co, moi czytelnicy chcą jeszcze czerpać z twoich doświadczeń, stąd ostatnie dwa pytania są od nich:
Mike: Right now climbing is a part-time hobby, I love it, but there are other things going on in my life. Is it ever likely to evolve into a full-blown passion just by itself, or do certain factors have to come into play to make me want to devote more of my life to it? Could any words you say make that difference?;)
I think passion can drive our choices in life. We all have obligations, jobs, families and “life”, but passion dictates a lot. My life is consumed with climbing because I’ve made it that way for a long time. Each decision we make is a compromise, but what we find valuable is the question. It’s a balance and this takes work and time to figure out. I believe if you’re truly passionate about something then you will do what you can to allow that passion to stay alive.
Mike: What is the difference between a pro, and a hobbyist, and how is that gap ever crossed, either one way or the other?
To me a pro-climber makes a living off of climbing sponsors. Sponsorship has many levels, but to be a full pro it is your job and profession. This puts you in a different light and requires a lot more responsibility.
(Joe’s climbing life is possible thanks to: Black Diamond, Sterling Rope, La Sportiva, Touchstone Climbing and Fitness, Friction Labs i So Ill)
Thanks for the conversation!
Me too!
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